Monday, 31 May 2010

On the silk road

In 2 weeks, we set foot on the ancient capital city of Chang'an, traversed across the Gobi desert to Dunhuang, experienced desolation at the western pass of the Great Wall of China in Jiayuguan and then carried on our journey to Xinjiang.

There were beautiful sceneries along the way as always, farmlands, grasslands, mountains, desert... but none could match the extraordinary charms of Tianshan and Tianchi. We saw people of different races and cultures. The Hans, the Tibetans, the Muslims and Uyghurs are mostly kind and generous. We slept on trains, galloped on horses, rode camels, sat on a donkey cart (...and ate some donkey).

Here are some of the places we have been to.


The terracotta army museum.


Iron Bridge over the Yellow River at Lanzhou.


Beautiful scenery outside the window on our 5 hours drive from Lanzhou to Xiahe.


Monks spinning prayer wheels at Labrang Monastry in Xiahe.


Tibetan nomads and their horses in Sangke Prairie.


Riding a horse on Sangke Prairie.


Desolation at Jiayuguan.


Thousand hands Guanyin (千手观音) performance in Dunhuang.


Echoing Sand Dune (鸣沙山) in Dunhuang.


Cresent Lake (月牙泉) in the middle of the desert.


A road through the flaming mountain (火焰山). No sight of Iron Fan Princess.


Muslim prevalence in Turpan.


The Uyghur children loved to be photographed.


Magnificent beauty of Tianshan (天山) and Tianchi(天池). Picture perfect.

Tuesday, 11 May 2010

Vienna, where the old and new converged

The Austrians have certainly got plenty to brag about to world. From a long list of great classical composers (Mozart, Strauss, Schubert, Haydn...), to the internationally renowned Vienna Boys Choir, and horses that waltz to a Mozart piece... it is cultural, aesthetical, sophisticated and once home to the most famous immigrant, Arnold Schwarzenegger.



It is the same feeling as I had 2 years ago when I walk down the streets of Vienna once again. The serenity and peace are well in agreement with my penchant for quietness. The sound of traffic, noise from machines, the hustling crowd which are familiar sights in most Asian cities are absent from here. The unusual tranquillity is charming and is what I love most about this place.

Vienna is far from being a solemn and boring city. It is urbane and modern amidst its cultural endowment. International boutiques sell leather goods, fine clothings and expensive watches under the roof of buildings that are centuries old. There are a myriad of cafes around Stephenplatz, some of chic elegance, others with a touch of classic royalty. Being in the old school, my favourite is Cafe Demel founded in the 18th century, which was the royal confectioner of the Austrian Hapsburg empire.


A cup of Melange (coffee with milk and foam) at Cafe Demel. An Austrian gentleman once told me that the best thing about the cafe culture in Austria is that coffee is always served with a glass of water and you can sit for hours reading papers without being disturbed.

Vienna, in short is a city where the old and the new converged.


Horse carriage and taxi running alongside each other.


Statue eyeing on McDonalds. She's obviously "Lovin' it" too.


Wallpaper covering the exterior of centuries old Gothic church undergoing restoration. It is bizarre looking I must say, but ingenious at the same time.


"Mozarts" touting at tourists. Sunglasses are fine for the glare but not quite fine with the classic costume.

Sunday, 18 April 2010

口不对心

慵懒的星期天午后,
放空心情什么也不去做。
拉上窗帘,唱机里播放着肖邦的小夜曲。
看似很不恰当的情节,
但这里的宁静极度可怕,
环视渺无人烟的周围,
仿佛深夜已提早降临。

想乘着假日回避全世界,
蓦然却感到异常寂寞。
每当寂寞涌上心头,就决心一定要合群。
然而,有一种灵魂天生渴望孤独,
拥挤的空气会消磨它的能量。
仔细看清楚自己,
那只是口不对心而已。

Saturday, 20 March 2010

Quest for Immortality

Throughout history, men have been obsessed with the quest for immortality, especially those in possession of great power and were held in high esteem. In recent years, we have the example of Chairman Mao, whose embalmed body is still on display in Beijing. From ancient times, the stories of Emperor Qin's fanatic search for the elixir of immortality are passed down from one generation to the next and many have seen his extensive terracotta army buried underground for his posthumous command. And long before that in the ancient Egyptian civilisation, bodies were desiccated and preserved for reunification with their spirits in the afterlife.

To put into modern day perspective, the fuss surrounding the ancient Egyptian's funerary procedures seems redundant. From building a pyramid to mummifying a body, to the complex rituals being performed, those were done to prepare the deceased for smooth transition into an afterlife, which I am not sure really does exist. Mummificiation itself was an elaborated process, grotesque if I may say, where brain was drawn out through the nostrils and organs pulled out from only a 3 inch long incision at the flank. Why the intricacy? Surely a simple surgical procedure would have quite easily achieved the same result. Even if surgery was not so advanced at that time, it would have been a more straightforward task if bigger slits were made on the cadaver, did not matter if that inflicted lacerated wounds.

But it did matter, not just cosmetically but every other minute details in the mummification process. The ancient Egyptians viewed the afterlife as sacrosanct and out of respect for the deceased, the body must be preserved as complete as possible. The importance of the afterlife to an Egyptian is most appropriately summarised in the following statement:

Sure, everyone likes to look pretty while he/she is "alive".

My favourite in the Quest for Immortality exhibition at the National Museum is the showcase of mummies. To me they are mysterious and bizzare, creepy but intriguing. After attending a 90 minute lecture on mummification, I am totally an expert non-professional embalmer! All I need is a twisted clothe hanger (for whisking up the brain then extracting it), an Ethiopian stone (obsidian knife made of volcanic glass; if not available I will improvise with a scalpel), 400 pounds of natron (similar to a composition of 60% baking soda 40% table salt), 50 yards of untreated linen (available today only in Ireland), some resin (for gluing the bandage together), a tent in an open space and 70 days... plus the guts of a hippopotamus so that I will not faint haha!


A mummy from several centuries BC (I forgot the year). The black stone-liked items on the mummy's chest are scarab amulets (scarabs being the black beetles that Rick and Evelyn O'Connell often encountered in the Egyptian tombs). These amulets protected the heart against betrayal.

The heart was regarded as most sacred in ancient Egyptian culture for it was believed that in there intelligence resided. The "Book of the Death" dedicated chapters to ensure that the heart was never to be separated from the body. According to the Book of the Death, the heart of a deceased would be weighed against the "feather of truth" (symbolically). If the heart was heavier, it would mean that the person was not pure (evil, hence with a heavy heart) and would be denied to enter the afterlife.


The ancient Egyptians believed that one thinks with the heart, not with the brain. That was probably why the brain was callously removed and disposed during the mummification process while the heart kept intact. Given our understanding today, would we have done the reverse? The other organs such as stomach, intestines, lungs and liver were kept in the canopic jars with carvings of heads of the 4 gods, responsible for guarding each organ.


This is a marvellous piece from 700-600 BC. The outer casing looks like a piece of thin wood or plastic but is actually the wrapping of untreated linen painted over with resin (called the cartonnage cover). As the resin dried up, the linen hardened and was then decorated with drawings of gods, patterns and hieroglyphic spells.


A closer look at how delicate the drawings are and the colours remained vivid after 2,700 years.


Mummified cat (you probably can't tell because it has been "elongated" by the lousy photographer).

Other interesting exhibits at the museum include artifacts found in burial tombs, statues of ancient Egyptian gods, hieroglyphic inscriptions.


Tomb carvings representing the replicas of the deceased, though not necessary to bear facial or physical resemblance.


Inscription in Hieratic, a cursive script derived from hieroglyph for quick writing in day-to-day activities such financial accounts. Thank goodness... can you imagine booking keeping in hieroglyph otherwise?


Statue of an elephant in motion (only 3 pieces in the world), very rare as most other Egyptian statues were carved in static. And the sphinx of a royalty distinguished by his elaborate headdress.


Probably the oldest artifact I have ever seen... dated 3100 BC! It is very tiny, less than 10cm carved out of a hippo ivory (hmm... why carve small statue out of big tusk?).


Colour palette for cosmetics in the shape of fish (believed to be a tuna) and tiny container with stick for eye makeup.

Thursday, 11 March 2010

At the studio

Never tried studio photography before and knew nothing about studio lighting. I attuned my camera to a dummy proof setting (as advised by the professional) and started shooting at random, disregarding all good advices which I previously learnt about 45 degree angle.

At the end of the day, I realised I can never become a studio photographer. I was laughing too hard behind the camera at the funny pose of the adult models. As for the kids, they were so disoriented and temperamental which I have little patience for. But it was fun watching the "wild musicians" slamming the piano keys and smashing the drums... although that was really a photographer's nightmare.


Solemn pianist and crazy rocker! Did I mention they are brothers?


PHD reading like a wise man.


I wanted a Ferrari, you gave me a "Fellali"!




Family photo... so blissful. (Photo courtesy of Mr Heng)